First, Cucugnan. This is a 'village perché', a tiny village set on the summit of a small steep hill, located in the heart of Cathar country. The houses seem to have grown organically from the bedrock, the lanes are tiny and steep, and many routes are up or down steep steps. L'Auberge du Vigneron is well-located for the motorist - we parked outside it for three nights running - and the room was air-conditioned and comfortable. The restaurant was excellent, but a touch formal for several nights in a row. There are other options in the village, however. We rated the hotel highly, and we liked the approach of the couple who own and run it, but you do need to have transportation to enjoy a stay there.